I had been to the Stork Inn before, but when I stumbled upon it again a few weeks ago, while out walking with my partner, I was in for a big surprise.

Not of the teddy bear's picnic variety, but one of the land of Nelson Mandela and next year's football World Cup finals.

For the pub, whilst retaining its identity as a 17th century coaching inn, has adopted a South African theme courtesy of new owner Tracy Fairbrother, who emigrated from her homeland 10 years ago and last year bought the pub with husband Ian Gelling.

It could all have been a huge tacky mistake had they marked the venture by plastering national flags on the walls and modernised by ripping out the old beams.

But they have wisely gone for a more subtle approach, with a few South African specialities joining traditional English favourites like gammon and steak on the menu, and the odd decorative nod to the country, such as a small ornamental giraffe.

On that occasion, we had liked their idea of offering half portions of all main meals – ideal for a light lunch halfway through a walk – but had played it safe with a half fish and chips each. We vowed to return, however, to sample some of the South African specialities, and in the hope that by choosing a half portion of a main course we would also succeed in managing both a starter and dessert - a rare achievement indeed.

The pub, on a Saturday evening, was not nearly as busy as it had been on a Sunday lunchtime, so much so that we asked to be moved from the main dining area into a more atmospheric room nearer the bar where we got our drinks.

For starters, I went for the grilled black pudding on mixed leaves topped with a poached egg and crispy bacon (£4.95). The black pudding was flavoursome and the egg cooked to perfection. The dish was drizzled in a lovely rich balsamic syrup.

My partner was similarly purring about her potato cakes with smoked haddock, leeks & parmesan, served with red onion marmalade & mixed leaves. (£4.95).

The South African theme kicked in for our mains. For me, that meant Boerewors, a lightly spiced coarse beef sausage, served on a mixed sweet potato and maris piper mash with a rich tomato and onion gravy.

The half portion meant two sausages at £6.95 instead of three at £8.95. And very nice and meaty they were too, complemented well by the tasty gravy.

My partner chose half a portion of Kassler rib chops (one chop instead of two) served with apple chutney and mash. (£6.95).

She thoroughly enjoyed the smoked pork, although she did suggest that the apple would have been nicer hot.

Dishes came with crisp carrots, mange tout and cauliflower.

For pudding (£3.95) we were invited to choose from a huge dessert blackboard which was lugged over to our table. I played it safe with a satisfying sticky toffee pudding, while my partner rounded off the night with a lime and coconut posset.

The half portion main courses meant that enjoying the three courses (a very reasonable £31.70) was no button bursting task. And with such good food, efficient service and a relaxed vibe, The Stork is well worth a visit.